Hey! Short update:
After I climbed in florida, I climbed for 3 days straight, which is a huge improvement from the past month of injury!
I have no endurance and I'm very very sore. Over the weekend I climbed at Brooklyn Boulders, It's always really fun there!
I just wanted to put up a video that I took of a pretty V7 I sent there.
I sent the problem, got really pumped, and took a vid. In the vid i dont send it.
I guess you dont have to believe me that I sent it in 3 tries, or that i sent it at all, lol
But here's the video nonetheless
btw: after changing a tire last saturday during the apocalyptic weather, I hurt my wrist a little bit...It seems to be getting back to normal again, it just got a little swollen.
Hueco is a week from friday! need to build endurance...
I don't know what happened.
It's been 5 weeks since I sprained my wrist. Everyday it felt as if it was sluggishly healing, hardly improving.
On saturday night, feeling crappy as it usually does, my brother did this anti-swelling trick on my wrist. I was like, lol...what do you mean you know a trick? and then he did it and i was like uh huh...whoaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Also, during the day as i was stretching it, I cracked it by accident...It hurt but idk. maybe that contributed too...i have no idea.
I think God just decided it was time. and i am very very very thankful.
My wrist has finally healed from its sprain! so i climbed in florida, totally had no endurance but had some amounts of strength.
The gym was called Aiguille, and is based in orlando.
For a gym that doesn't have real rock within a 100 mile radius, they do really well! the problems were very thought out, very fun with the features and angles, and had some tweaky beta.
I was glad i got to climb my hardest once again. It really felt amazing.
I woke up this morning and my forearms were sore for the first time in over a month. I am very very happy.
and my wrist still feels good! praise God.
So here's a video of some of the climbs.
Sorry bout the quality, I was just intending on climbing...lol
V9- the move after is the crux, very tiny crimp and a throw to an ok edge
V6- Holds are small slopey crimps except for the big left hand pinch. I didnt think i could even start this one when i looked at the bad feet.
Last problem- As i upload this video, i want to go back and campus the finishing move...it felt possible that way, but i was wayyy pumped outtt.
So! I feel good! I'll keep you posted. hopefully ill be sending some really aesthetic projects real soon!!
It's been 5 weeks since I sprained my wrist. Everyday it felt as if it was sluggishly healing, hardly improving.
On saturday night, feeling crappy as it usually does, my brother did this anti-swelling trick on my wrist. I was like, lol...what do you mean you know a trick? and then he did it and i was like uh huh...whoaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Also, during the day as i was stretching it, I cracked it by accident...It hurt but idk. maybe that contributed too...i have no idea.
I think God just decided it was time. and i am very very very thankful.
My wrist has finally healed from its sprain! so i climbed in florida, totally had no endurance but had some amounts of strength.
The gym was called Aiguille, and is based in orlando.
For a gym that doesn't have real rock within a 100 mile radius, they do really well! the problems were very thought out, very fun with the features and angles, and had some tweaky beta.
I was glad i got to climb my hardest once again. It really felt amazing.
I woke up this morning and my forearms were sore for the first time in over a month. I am very very happy.
and my wrist still feels good! praise God.
So here's a video of some of the climbs.
Healing! Climbing in Florida from Alan Kahn on Vimeo.
Sorry bout the quality, I was just intending on climbing...lol
V9- the move after is the crux, very tiny crimp and a throw to an ok edge
V6- Holds are small slopey crimps except for the big left hand pinch. I didnt think i could even start this one when i looked at the bad feet.
Last problem- As i upload this video, i want to go back and campus the finishing move...it felt possible that way, but i was wayyy pumped outtt.
So! I feel good! I'll keep you posted. hopefully ill be sending some really aesthetic projects real soon!!
Monday, March 8, 2010
HI!
I've been having a really silly day today.
maybe its carrying over from last night...
It was just one of those mornings where youre like...oh boy...Here we go!
i was gonna go into it but i decided against it.. "a fool vents all his feelings but a wise man holds them back"
so anyway. 2 weeks ago i competed at my home gym's climbing competition.
after 8 sustained hours of climbing problems rated v6 and higher, my tips were way beyond shredded, my muscles are limp, and i was out of energy.
the only reason i was still climbing is because a good friend of mine just got there after he got off work.
so there was a "v7" probably more of a 6, that i sent earlier that day that had a deadpoint throw from a left hand crimp and a right hand pinch to a font
this hold...lol.
in the past, no matter what direction its facing, ive felt my wrist dislocate on it while trying to gain some form of grip. it doesnt happen all the time, but it has happened.
now, i did the throw, felt my wrist dislocate...didnt shake it out or anything, just dead hanged, campus matched, and campused up left hand with right hand still on the hold to the finish hold.
when i came down i knew something was wrong, i moved my wrist and i heard it crack along with feeling a sharp pain in the back of my wrist.
i couldnt move my hand up or rotate it without sharp pain, and i know now that i sprained it. figured that my tendons and ligaments were already overstrained, and when my wrist dislocated, all my weight rested on my ligaments.
a sprain is when you hyperextend the ligaments, usually by falling on it or using a great amount of pressure...
so now ive been resting for the most part. trying to work on my legs...
i climbed "lightly" (under v5) exactly one week after the comp and i think it lengthened my recovery period a bit.
last night, 2 weeks and 2 days from the comp, i went to gsr after i had done some physical therapy the previous night. i had full range of movement in my wrist as well as minimal soreness when i moved it up.
i limited myself extremely to static moves only, and i didnt realize how much ive been relying on dynamic motion until this point.
im probably at most a v2 or v3 climber without dynamic movement. this made me very frustrated, because i felt like a completely different person climbing, i couldnt climb by instinct, and thats pretty much all i have.
i feel like if i climb like this too much, ill lose my ability to read problems correctly.
although for some reason, while i climbed last night, i didnt look at the problems at all, i just tried to onsight everything while being static.
its just very frustrating, i really want to climb again on things that are my limit.
ive been very afraid lately of havting to get surgery or something, i dont think thatll be the case but itll take a little bit more time before im completely healed.
im a little bit more sore today unfortunately. still got full motion fine, but i gotta ice it when i get home from class.
now. i know in time itll heal back completely and ill be back trying my hardest and pushing the limits of whats possible for me...im just very impatient!
i realized that this morning.
my flat iron is broken and you have to wind it up in order for it to turn on.
this time it took 15 minutes of me trying to wind it up, and it didnt work. each minute i got more and more frustrated, until i ran out of time to leave for school and i actually started praying "GOD PLEASE TURN THIS ON NOW!"
thats when i kinda just stopped, and looked at the silly situation i was in.
the word, "NOW" really hit me. maybe i havent even fully realized this until just now as im writing this.
everything has to happen NOW for me. i want everything NOW. i am super impatient on everything just because i cant see what God's doing in my life on a day to day basis.
why cant i just accept circumstances as they happen and praise God anyway?
probably because im trusting in my own plans.
in the process im hurting myself. making myself frustrated, delaying my wrist recovery...
i dont know. in fact im going to stop writing this post.
I'm going to try to hear from God. I'm talking way too much lately
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
So Yesterday, January 19th, marks one year since I began climbing.
(Defined as going to the climbing gym to climb for the sake of climbing, not counting a high school summer camp fake rock experience or anything silly like that. Which has happened to me in the past like 4 years ago, but I usually avoided it because I was scared of heights and was pretty bad at it.)
Before climbing i didnt do any kind of sport since freshman year of highschool...Which was basketball..
Although 3 years ago i tried lifting weights for an entire summer. but that was still a while ago.
So I'm glad I was introduced to rock climbing via a couple of friends that invited me. It definitely got me into shape and makes me look at life in different aspects, as well as meet a whole bunch of new friends along the way.
So. I would say at this point I'm a crappy climber. My fingers are weak, I am horrible at footwork, and I'm always rushing to do things.
but i had a silly goal of trying to send a V10 boulder problem outside within one year of climbing..because Dave Graham sent a 5.14a sport route within one year of climbing.
The latter part of this year I got pretty sick, I lost 10 pounds and it took a whole month to recooperate and that long in order for me to be allowed to eat normally.
Last post I tried to come up with a workout regimen to get me in shape, but i got sick again and went on a couple road trips that killed my diet.
Well, I didn't care, I was still going to give my all in order to try to send V10 anyway.
So i saw Sweat of the Rapist, a V10 in central park (LOL) first ascent made by Ivan Greene.
It was a 4 move extension (said to be V9 rated extension alone) out to an existing V6 Traverse.
I bought a DVD called the road by mike call in order to get beta on the problem. (which by the way, is an excellent classic movie).
to be honest, Ivan made the problem look so easy lol.
But i figured thats how it was when i saw the beta, So i memorized each sequence for the extension, and I'd figure the V6 on my own (The v6 is kind of hard to tell from the video.)
I went to the city with my friend manuel in order to try the problem. and if it was really THAT hard, (LOL duh) I would come back on monday in order to finish the problem. And there was a cool V9 called priviledged that i could try on the same boulder as well.
My plan was to get all the moves down to a science on Thursday, and send the problem on monday.
Then the weather told me that monday would be shot.
My only free two days were in trouble..So I was left with only thursday to send the problem.
This was a problem...
Well anyway.
So we get to the boulder.
One of the key holds is broken off on the extension.
!!!
Now what was a bump, becomes a large throw. And that is kind of out of my league for now...
And then at the sit start for the v9, privileged, theres a pile of dog poop. LOL.
So i attempt the beginning anyway of the v10.
surprisingly, although pretty burly...I could do all the extension moves EXCEPT the one that bumps to the broken hold. because it wasnt there anymore.
You begin with a really high good heelhook, and go out left to a microcrimp, and then get your right hand on a very thin gaston crimp.
Left Hand Crimp
Left Hand Two finger Crimp with Fingers to scale (very tips of your fingers..like where your finger nail starts...)
Right Hand Crimp
Red Line marks the outline of the missing hold
So i tried a number of things, But couldnt make the stretch without the bump. I'm sure someone could. Just not me.
So i tried the V6 extension for a bit which felt totally doable, but felt like we should move to a different boulder to keep morale up.
Went to south central park to work on rat rock and send the polish traverse.
in short. I did not send the polish traverse lol. I hate it. i hate the problem. i hate it.
its too technical for me i guess at this point. PLUS. its a whole thing of, "this is on, no thats not on, you start here, no you start here, no you top out there."
and i cant ever be sure. so im not going to go back there until its packed with people.
i was doing really well on a flash attempt of koma's roof from the v7 start, but i stepped off. i dont know why.
so then we went to climb at manhattan plaza health club.
turns out while talking with people there, one dude actually has the broken v10 hold at his house...
so im like !!
so hes going to email me when he glues it back on. just like all of the holds there.
i dont feel like giving beta on the rest of the extension for the v10, but the moves were definitely fun. lots of cross-overs and tiny crimps and bad feet.
i must say, im horrible at heel hooks, and my hamstring almost got pulled after trying that start a bunch of times. by the time we were climbing at mphc, it was locking up and i was getting charlie horses. it was pretty bad!
so now. im pretty inspired to try new things and to climb harder than ever...
and to have fun! thats the most important thing!
here's a pic of the v6 extension:
Right now I am so sore, I havent had a rest day since i went outside thursday. I've either climbed or done hangboard training. I got the first flapper in forever last night, and my forearms are so shot.
But theres a comp next week, and i think itll help show me where I'm at if i push myself to try all new things all at once...
I need to get outside!!
(Defined as going to the climbing gym to climb for the sake of climbing, not counting a high school summer camp fake rock experience or anything silly like that. Which has happened to me in the past like 4 years ago, but I usually avoided it because I was scared of heights and was pretty bad at it.)
Before climbing i didnt do any kind of sport since freshman year of highschool...Which was basketball..
Although 3 years ago i tried lifting weights for an entire summer. but that was still a while ago.
So I'm glad I was introduced to rock climbing via a couple of friends that invited me. It definitely got me into shape and makes me look at life in different aspects, as well as meet a whole bunch of new friends along the way.
So. I would say at this point I'm a crappy climber. My fingers are weak, I am horrible at footwork, and I'm always rushing to do things.
but i had a silly goal of trying to send a V10 boulder problem outside within one year of climbing..because Dave Graham sent a 5.14a sport route within one year of climbing.
The latter part of this year I got pretty sick, I lost 10 pounds and it took a whole month to recooperate and that long in order for me to be allowed to eat normally.
Last post I tried to come up with a workout regimen to get me in shape, but i got sick again and went on a couple road trips that killed my diet.
Well, I didn't care, I was still going to give my all in order to try to send V10 anyway.
So i saw Sweat of the Rapist, a V10 in central park (LOL) first ascent made by Ivan Greene.
It was a 4 move extension (said to be V9 rated extension alone) out to an existing V6 Traverse.
I bought a DVD called the road by mike call in order to get beta on the problem. (which by the way, is an excellent classic movie).
to be honest, Ivan made the problem look so easy lol.
But i figured thats how it was when i saw the beta, So i memorized each sequence for the extension, and I'd figure the V6 on my own (The v6 is kind of hard to tell from the video.)
I went to the city with my friend manuel in order to try the problem. and if it was really THAT hard, (LOL duh) I would come back on monday in order to finish the problem. And there was a cool V9 called priviledged that i could try on the same boulder as well.
My plan was to get all the moves down to a science on Thursday, and send the problem on monday.
Then the weather told me that monday would be shot.
My only free two days were in trouble..So I was left with only thursday to send the problem.
This was a problem...
Well anyway.
So we get to the boulder.
One of the key holds is broken off on the extension.
!!!
Now what was a bump, becomes a large throw. And that is kind of out of my league for now...
And then at the sit start for the v9, privileged, theres a pile of dog poop. LOL.
So i attempt the beginning anyway of the v10.
surprisingly, although pretty burly...I could do all the extension moves EXCEPT the one that bumps to the broken hold. because it wasnt there anymore.
You begin with a really high good heelhook, and go out left to a microcrimp, and then get your right hand on a very thin gaston crimp.
Left Hand Crimp
Left Hand Two finger Crimp with Fingers to scale (very tips of your fingers..like where your finger nail starts...)
Right Hand Crimp
Red Line marks the outline of the missing hold
So i tried a number of things, But couldnt make the stretch without the bump. I'm sure someone could. Just not me.
So i tried the V6 extension for a bit which felt totally doable, but felt like we should move to a different boulder to keep morale up.
Went to south central park to work on rat rock and send the polish traverse.
in short. I did not send the polish traverse lol. I hate it. i hate the problem. i hate it.
its too technical for me i guess at this point. PLUS. its a whole thing of, "this is on, no thats not on, you start here, no you start here, no you top out there."
and i cant ever be sure. so im not going to go back there until its packed with people.
i was doing really well on a flash attempt of koma's roof from the v7 start, but i stepped off. i dont know why.
so then we went to climb at manhattan plaza health club.
turns out while talking with people there, one dude actually has the broken v10 hold at his house...
so im like !!
so hes going to email me when he glues it back on. just like all of the holds there.
i dont feel like giving beta on the rest of the extension for the v10, but the moves were definitely fun. lots of cross-overs and tiny crimps and bad feet.
i must say, im horrible at heel hooks, and my hamstring almost got pulled after trying that start a bunch of times. by the time we were climbing at mphc, it was locking up and i was getting charlie horses. it was pretty bad!
so now. im pretty inspired to try new things and to climb harder than ever...
and to have fun! thats the most important thing!
here's a pic of the v6 extension:
Right now I am so sore, I havent had a rest day since i went outside thursday. I've either climbed or done hangboard training. I got the first flapper in forever last night, and my forearms are so shot.
But theres a comp next week, and i think itll help show me where I'm at if i push myself to try all new things all at once...
I need to get outside!!
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
So like I said, for the next 4 weeks I'm going to go training crazy and see what happens.
But we all know just working hard doesn't always = good. You gotta workout smart too.
Therefore I'm going to monitor my caloric and nutritional intake so that I can put on about a pound of muscle a week so I can get stronger healthily without just overworking my muscles/tendons.
Now, to inform you, I am 5'10 weigh 140 lb.s and have 6% body fat, which means I have 8.4 lb.s of fat on my body.
I normally eat about 2100-2200 calories a day. In order to maintain my weight, I have to eat about 2400-2500 calories..which is why I keep losing weight, slowly but surely.
One pound = 3500 calories, meaning to put on a pound you need to consume 500 extra calories a day..obviously most of those calories have to come from protein otherwise you'll just get fat!
So I need:
3,025 calories a day
Max 90g fat
Of fat only 30g max saturated
373g max carbohydrates
About 140 grams of protein, a gram per pound. Although 130 would be ok too.
And 31g of dietary fiber.
I am tracking my intake through a really useful website called www.fitday.com
There you can look up thousands of popular brands of foods and add them up to find out what you consume in a day.
Already I'm avoiding the cookies and saving space for meals!
Lol.
So onto the workout regimine.
I won't go into too much detail, but the way I work out for power is to do all 3 types of resistance training basically to work out till exhaustion.
Now I haven't gone on a strict muscle building routine in 2 years, but back then it worked pretty well.
For each muscle group, I do 3 sets of 70-80% of my max weight for 5-8 reps. Then I do a different excercise for 50% of my max weight for 10 reps. Then I do a final excercise for 20% of my max weight for about 20 reps.
In this way, I'm only at the gym pumping iron for about a half hour, so that my muscles get exhausted quickly with little rest in between.
I hardly ever did cardio..but ill have to start..
My schedule is as follows:
Week 1: Power Week 12/23-12/29
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Chest
Friday: Rest (It's Christmas after all...)
Saturday: Brooklyn Boulders
Sunday: Back/Abs
Monday: Rest/Trip To D.C.
Tuesday: Rest/Trip To D.C.
Week 2: Endurance 12/30-1/5(Light reps + treadmill or other cardio excercise every day at the gym)
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Chest/Climbing
Friday: Rest/Retreat to PA (possible light climbing)
Saturday: Rest/Retreat to PA (possible light climbing)
Sunday: Back/Abs
Monday: Dance Dance Revolution/Climbing
Tuesday: Rest
Week 3: Power Week/Rest 1/6-1/12? (Subject to change based on what day is optimal to take a trip to boulder outside)
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Back/Climbing
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Rest
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Rest
Week 4: Rest Before Sending 1/13-1/19
Wed: Rest
Trip possibly begin Thursday ending no later than Sunday
And in terms of supplements, I'm currently taking:
Vitamin Shoppe Brand:
Amino Complex
Glucosamine (vegetarian formula)
MEGA Fish Oil EPA-DHA
GNC Brand:
B-Complex 50
BSN Brand:
Syntha-6 Chocolate Milkshake Protein Complex
VPX Brand:
Zero Impact Pumpkin Supreme and/or Peanut Butter and Jelly Protein Bars
Rationale:
Really simply,
Amino acids = broken down proteins for immediately after working out to absorb into your muscles
Glucosamine for joints and tendons
Fish oil for heart joints tendons and over a dozen other good things
B-Vitamins for energy
Zero Impact protein bars are great tasting bars that dont have sugar alcohols or anything that makes you feel sick after you eat them. Great for when im on the run and i cant make a protein shake. Lots of calories too, and theyre from healthy fats and protein.
Syntha6 is definitely the best tasting protein shake ive ever tried, plus it also doesnt have sugar alcohols and doesnt make me feel sick. plus you only need to put it in 6 fl oz of water for 22 grams of protein and around 200 calories. I have a small stomach so its good to use a couple times during the day if need be.
So that's basically it! I can answer any questions you guys have...
Hopefully ill look back at this entry and be proud. haha.
As of right now, I just got back from a church party that only had cookies and snacks...no food. so I had to just hold out till i got home to eat.
I took in
2,661 calories out of 3,025
76.9g fat out of max 90
374.8g carbs out of max 373
121.1g protein out of 140
today. I could probably eat some more chicken and hit the 140 mark in protein and finish at 2,800 calories..but i dont want to eat too much more since ill be going to bed within 2 hours..
so ill try harder tomorrow! but still, 2,600 calories and 120g protein is better than what i usually do!
I am soooo sore right now. it feels good.
But we all know just working hard doesn't always = good. You gotta workout smart too.
Therefore I'm going to monitor my caloric and nutritional intake so that I can put on about a pound of muscle a week so I can get stronger healthily without just overworking my muscles/tendons.
Now, to inform you, I am 5'10 weigh 140 lb.s and have 6% body fat, which means I have 8.4 lb.s of fat on my body.
I normally eat about 2100-2200 calories a day. In order to maintain my weight, I have to eat about 2400-2500 calories..which is why I keep losing weight, slowly but surely.
One pound = 3500 calories, meaning to put on a pound you need to consume 500 extra calories a day..obviously most of those calories have to come from protein otherwise you'll just get fat!
So I need:
3,025 calories a day
Max 90g fat
Of fat only 30g max saturated
373g max carbohydrates
About 140 grams of protein, a gram per pound. Although 130 would be ok too.
And 31g of dietary fiber.
I am tracking my intake through a really useful website called www.fitday.com
There you can look up thousands of popular brands of foods and add them up to find out what you consume in a day.
Already I'm avoiding the cookies and saving space for meals!
Lol.
So onto the workout regimine.
I won't go into too much detail, but the way I work out for power is to do all 3 types of resistance training basically to work out till exhaustion.
Now I haven't gone on a strict muscle building routine in 2 years, but back then it worked pretty well.
For each muscle group, I do 3 sets of 70-80% of my max weight for 5-8 reps. Then I do a different excercise for 50% of my max weight for 10 reps. Then I do a final excercise for 20% of my max weight for about 20 reps.
In this way, I'm only at the gym pumping iron for about a half hour, so that my muscles get exhausted quickly with little rest in between.
I hardly ever did cardio..but ill have to start..
My schedule is as follows:
Week 1: Power Week 12/23-12/29
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Chest
Friday: Rest (It's Christmas after all...)
Saturday: Brooklyn Boulders
Sunday: Back/Abs
Monday: Rest/Trip To D.C.
Tuesday: Rest/Trip To D.C.
Week 2: Endurance 12/30-1/5(Light reps + treadmill or other cardio excercise every day at the gym)
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Chest/Climbing
Friday: Rest/Retreat to PA (possible light climbing)
Saturday: Rest/Retreat to PA (possible light climbing)
Sunday: Back/Abs
Monday: Dance Dance Revolution/Climbing
Tuesday: Rest
Week 3: Power Week/Rest 1/6-1/12? (Subject to change based on what day is optimal to take a trip to boulder outside)
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Back/Climbing
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Rest
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Rest
Week 4: Rest Before Sending 1/13-1/19
Wed: Rest
Trip possibly begin Thursday ending no later than Sunday
And in terms of supplements, I'm currently taking:
Vitamin Shoppe Brand:
Amino Complex
Glucosamine (vegetarian formula)
MEGA Fish Oil EPA-DHA
GNC Brand:
B-Complex 50
BSN Brand:
Syntha-6 Chocolate Milkshake Protein Complex
VPX Brand:
Zero Impact Pumpkin Supreme and/or Peanut Butter and Jelly Protein Bars
Rationale:
Really simply,
Amino acids = broken down proteins for immediately after working out to absorb into your muscles
Glucosamine for joints and tendons
Fish oil for heart joints tendons and over a dozen other good things
B-Vitamins for energy
Zero Impact protein bars are great tasting bars that dont have sugar alcohols or anything that makes you feel sick after you eat them. Great for when im on the run and i cant make a protein shake. Lots of calories too, and theyre from healthy fats and protein.
Syntha6 is definitely the best tasting protein shake ive ever tried, plus it also doesnt have sugar alcohols and doesnt make me feel sick. plus you only need to put it in 6 fl oz of water for 22 grams of protein and around 200 calories. I have a small stomach so its good to use a couple times during the day if need be.
So that's basically it! I can answer any questions you guys have...
Hopefully ill look back at this entry and be proud. haha.
As of right now, I just got back from a church party that only had cookies and snacks...no food. so I had to just hold out till i got home to eat.
I took in
2,661 calories out of 3,025
76.9g fat out of max 90
374.8g carbs out of max 373
121.1g protein out of 140
today. I could probably eat some more chicken and hit the 140 mark in protein and finish at 2,800 calories..but i dont want to eat too much more since ill be going to bed within 2 hours..
so ill try harder tomorrow! but still, 2,600 calories and 120g protein is better than what i usually do!
I am soooo sore right now. it feels good.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
LOL. so it's been 11 months officially that i have been rock climbing.
just a few things i want to say:
1. probably not sending v10 next month lol
2. forget sending v10, i need to get outside period!
3. last week i got the OK from the doctor to eat normally and take supplements again. (fish oils, glucosamine, amino acids) and im going to start taking them along with upping my protein levels again..
4. tomorrow is my last final at school, so starting tomorrow im gonna try to train all out for the next 4 weeks...and see what happens. ill make training plans tonight, and hopefully will post them up in the next few days..
here's a video of me yesterday sending a fun V6 that just got put up at GSR by simon. i tried to flash it, but dabbed. i got it the 2nd go tho!
Oh, and Merry Christmas!!
just a few things i want to say:
1. probably not sending v10 next month lol
2. forget sending v10, i need to get outside period!
3. last week i got the OK from the doctor to eat normally and take supplements again. (fish oils, glucosamine, amino acids) and im going to start taking them along with upping my protein levels again..
4. tomorrow is my last final at school, so starting tomorrow im gonna try to train all out for the next 4 weeks...and see what happens. ill make training plans tonight, and hopefully will post them up in the next few days..
here's a video of me yesterday sending a fun V6 that just got put up at GSR by simon. i tried to flash it, but dabbed. i got it the 2nd go tho!
Garden State Rocks V6 Indoor Rock Climbing from Alan Kahn on Vimeo.
Oh, and Merry Christmas!!
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
YO!
So lets see...
I got really sick last week, from sunday to sunday i was barely able to walk.
my liver became inflamed, i didnt eat more than two bowls of soup for 5 days, vomitted blood, had a steady fever, lost a total of 10 lb.s, and my urine was dark brown.
saturday i forced myself to eat so i wouldnt have to go to the hospital.
they thought i had hepatitis a, but thankfully the blood tests came out negative.
i go back to the doctors next week to get a couple more tests done.
on sunday i started feeling a little better, and since i had to cancel a trip to the gunks, instead i decided to go to gsr for an hour.
i felt pretty weak.
next day i went back and still felt pretty bad but almost sent a new v7.. (now that i look back i think it may be kinda soft for a 7.) next session i felt a little better and got it right away
im not allowed to eat things with fat, caffeine, obviously alcohol, and im supposed to regulate my protein intake to about 40-60 grams a day.
to a person thats targets around 140 grams of protein a day...thats a major setback. (although i hardly hit that goal daily...lol.)
so it felt like i was told i wasnt allowed to get stronger for 2 weeks. kinda beat.
i feel the effects, i feel like its taking longer to recover and im not able to unlock the potential i should have by now...
anyway. i checked out brooklyn boulders with jj last saturday. the place was insane! so many problems, some really really fun setting, and a cool environment.
i sent a bunch of 5's and a 7. i was projecting a couple more 7s and 9s. on two v9s i got about halfway, and i feel i could get much farther if i was fresh. theyve been haunting me and i really want to go back to send them.
we mostly stuck to ivan's problems, they seemed to be the most fun.
there was a really cool stemming v4 with two giant features that was really sweet, and the most fun dyno problem ever that was a v5. (video footage below of a really funny burn. lol.)
i really want to go back there. i feel like going there could really give me the potential to be strong. theres a lot of things out of my grasp, and problems that can teach me new moves and techniques and stuff. thats really what ive been looking for.
i went to gsr on monday, and still felt sore from saturday. we bouldered saturday night from 8pm till 12am.
i was kinda upset i was still feeling weak. ive started to gain back some weight, but i doubt much of it is muscle because of my diet..
im debating right now whether to go climb between now and sunday...
sunday i plan on going to the gunks. i hope to have lots of fun and to be able to try some hard stuff beyond my ability.
soo i want to be able to be at full throttle sunday...idk. maybe ill wait.
at the same time i want to get stronger for sunday...but if i climb today i might still be sore..ahh! too much thinking.
anyway. ive been watching videos from niagara glen. i really really want to climb there. it looks insane. the rock looks so good and the problems are hard and really cool.
maybe ill go there during winter break if its not snowing.
idk!
i need to get outside, even though its getting cold.
so for now, check out a vid from brooklyn boulders featuring the most fun dyno ever, and a really embarrasing fall. lol
So lets see...
I got really sick last week, from sunday to sunday i was barely able to walk.
my liver became inflamed, i didnt eat more than two bowls of soup for 5 days, vomitted blood, had a steady fever, lost a total of 10 lb.s, and my urine was dark brown.
saturday i forced myself to eat so i wouldnt have to go to the hospital.
they thought i had hepatitis a, but thankfully the blood tests came out negative.
i go back to the doctors next week to get a couple more tests done.
on sunday i started feeling a little better, and since i had to cancel a trip to the gunks, instead i decided to go to gsr for an hour.
i felt pretty weak.
next day i went back and still felt pretty bad but almost sent a new v7.. (now that i look back i think it may be kinda soft for a 7.) next session i felt a little better and got it right away
im not allowed to eat things with fat, caffeine, obviously alcohol, and im supposed to regulate my protein intake to about 40-60 grams a day.
to a person thats targets around 140 grams of protein a day...thats a major setback. (although i hardly hit that goal daily...lol.)
so it felt like i was told i wasnt allowed to get stronger for 2 weeks. kinda beat.
i feel the effects, i feel like its taking longer to recover and im not able to unlock the potential i should have by now...
anyway. i checked out brooklyn boulders with jj last saturday. the place was insane! so many problems, some really really fun setting, and a cool environment.
i sent a bunch of 5's and a 7. i was projecting a couple more 7s and 9s. on two v9s i got about halfway, and i feel i could get much farther if i was fresh. theyve been haunting me and i really want to go back to send them.
we mostly stuck to ivan's problems, they seemed to be the most fun.
there was a really cool stemming v4 with two giant features that was really sweet, and the most fun dyno problem ever that was a v5. (video footage below of a really funny burn. lol.)
i really want to go back there. i feel like going there could really give me the potential to be strong. theres a lot of things out of my grasp, and problems that can teach me new moves and techniques and stuff. thats really what ive been looking for.
i went to gsr on monday, and still felt sore from saturday. we bouldered saturday night from 8pm till 12am.
i was kinda upset i was still feeling weak. ive started to gain back some weight, but i doubt much of it is muscle because of my diet..
im debating right now whether to go climb between now and sunday...
sunday i plan on going to the gunks. i hope to have lots of fun and to be able to try some hard stuff beyond my ability.
soo i want to be able to be at full throttle sunday...idk. maybe ill wait.
at the same time i want to get stronger for sunday...but if i climb today i might still be sore..ahh! too much thinking.
anyway. ive been watching videos from niagara glen. i really really want to climb there. it looks insane. the rock looks so good and the problems are hard and really cool.
maybe ill go there during winter break if its not snowing.
idk!
i need to get outside, even though its getting cold.
so for now, check out a vid from brooklyn boulders featuring the most fun dyno ever, and a really embarrasing fall. lol
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
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