So Yesterday, January 19th, marks one year since I began climbing.
(Defined as going to the climbing gym to climb for the sake of climbing, not counting a high school summer camp fake rock experience or anything silly like that. Which has happened to me in the past like 4 years ago, but I usually avoided it because I was scared of heights and was pretty bad at it.)
Before climbing i didnt do any kind of sport since freshman year of highschool...Which was basketball..
Although 3 years ago i tried lifting weights for an entire summer. but that was still a while ago.
So I'm glad I was introduced to rock climbing via a couple of friends that invited me. It definitely got me into shape and makes me look at life in different aspects, as well as meet a whole bunch of new friends along the way.
So. I would say at this point I'm a crappy climber. My fingers are weak, I am horrible at footwork, and I'm always rushing to do things.
but i had a silly goal of trying to send a V10 boulder problem outside within one year of climbing..because Dave Graham sent a 5.14a sport route within one year of climbing.
The latter part of this year I got pretty sick, I lost 10 pounds and it took a whole month to recooperate and that long in order for me to be allowed to eat normally.
Last post I tried to come up with a workout regimen to get me in shape, but i got sick again and went on a couple road trips that killed my diet.
Well, I didn't care, I was still going to give my all in order to try to send V10 anyway.
So i saw Sweat of the Rapist, a V10 in central park (LOL) first ascent made by Ivan Greene.
It was a 4 move extension (said to be V9 rated extension alone) out to an existing V6 Traverse.
I bought a DVD called the road by mike call in order to get beta on the problem. (which by the way, is an excellent classic movie).
to be honest, Ivan made the problem look so easy lol.
But i figured thats how it was when i saw the beta, So i memorized each sequence for the extension, and I'd figure the V6 on my own (The v6 is kind of hard to tell from the video.)
I went to the city with my friend manuel in order to try the problem. and if it was really THAT hard, (LOL duh) I would come back on monday in order to finish the problem. And there was a cool V9 called priviledged that i could try on the same boulder as well.
My plan was to get all the moves down to a science on Thursday, and send the problem on monday.
Then the weather told me that monday would be shot.
My only free two days were in trouble..So I was left with only thursday to send the problem.
This was a problem...
Well anyway.
So we get to the boulder.
One of the key holds is broken off on the extension.
!!!
Now what was a bump, becomes a large throw. And that is kind of out of my league for now...
And then at the sit start for the v9, privileged, theres a pile of dog poop. LOL.
So i attempt the beginning anyway of the v10.
surprisingly, although pretty burly...I could do all the extension moves EXCEPT the one that bumps to the broken hold. because it wasnt there anymore.
You begin with a really high good heelhook, and go out left to a microcrimp, and then get your right hand on a very thin gaston crimp.
Left Hand Crimp
Left Hand Two finger Crimp with Fingers to scale (very tips of your fingers..like where your finger nail starts...)
Right Hand Crimp
Red Line marks the outline of the missing hold
So i tried a number of things, But couldnt make the stretch without the bump. I'm sure someone could. Just not me.
So i tried the V6 extension for a bit which felt totally doable, but felt like we should move to a different boulder to keep morale up.
Went to south central park to work on rat rock and send the polish traverse.
in short. I did not send the polish traverse lol. I hate it. i hate the problem. i hate it.
its too technical for me i guess at this point. PLUS. its a whole thing of, "this is on, no thats not on, you start here, no you start here, no you top out there."
and i cant ever be sure. so im not going to go back there until its packed with people.
i was doing really well on a flash attempt of koma's roof from the v7 start, but i stepped off. i dont know why.
so then we went to climb at manhattan plaza health club.
turns out while talking with people there, one dude actually has the broken v10 hold at his house...
so im like !!
so hes going to email me when he glues it back on. just like all of the holds there.
i dont feel like giving beta on the rest of the extension for the v10, but the moves were definitely fun. lots of cross-overs and tiny crimps and bad feet.
i must say, im horrible at heel hooks, and my hamstring almost got pulled after trying that start a bunch of times. by the time we were climbing at mphc, it was locking up and i was getting charlie horses. it was pretty bad!
so now. im pretty inspired to try new things and to climb harder than ever...
and to have fun! thats the most important thing!
here's a pic of the v6 extension:
Right now I am so sore, I havent had a rest day since i went outside thursday. I've either climbed or done hangboard training. I got the first flapper in forever last night, and my forearms are so shot.
But theres a comp next week, and i think itll help show me where I'm at if i push myself to try all new things all at once...
I need to get outside!!
