Showing posts with label flash. Show all posts
Showing posts with label flash. Show all posts

One month to go, i am trying to go outside...

LOL. so it's been 11 months officially that i have been rock climbing.

just a few things i want to say:

1. probably not sending v10 next month lol
2. forget sending v10, i need to get outside period!
3. last week i got the OK from the doctor to eat normally and take supplements again. (fish oils, glucosamine, amino acids) and im going to start taking them along with upping my protein levels again..
4. tomorrow is my last final at school, so starting tomorrow im gonna try to train all out for the next 4 weeks...and see what happens. ill make training plans tonight, and hopefully will post them up in the next few days..

here's a video of me yesterday sending a fun V6 that just got put up at GSR by simon. i tried to flash it, but dabbed. i got it the 2nd go tho!

Garden State Rocks V6 Indoor Rock Climbing from Alan Kahn on Vimeo.



Oh, and Merry Christmas!!

Blood and Bouldering @ the Gunks


So sunday i was mad stoked to get on the rocks again. my plans were to send a bunch of problems i left unfinished from last time i went, try a couple new hard out-of-reach problems, and flash black boulder problem v5.

i went with manuel, jj, and emiliano.

maybe 10 minutes into arriving at the trapps, we were warming up on the boulder of the gods and the warmup boulder

i went over to check out new pair of glasses with a d00d i just met who was also psyched to work on it.

i walked back to check on the guys and unfortunately emiliano fell and broke his ankle by landing one foot on the pad and one foot on a jagged rock.

the bone was stickin out of his ankle and his foot was sideways.

we called the ranger over and 911 and got him to the hospital.

5 hours later, jj and i decided to leave the hospital and go back to the gunks

(emiliano is recovering as of the time of this writing, keep him in your prayers as he will be undergoing surgery and such.)

with about 2 hours of sunlight left, i decided to try to focus on having fun and working on a project that wouldnt consume a lot of time.

so ive wanted to flash black boulder problem, because it looked like a pretty fun problem, and it seems like its hard for me to flash things outside, because the holds are often harder to read for me.

i saw some other guy working on it from the v3 stand start, so, thinking that it was the start i made an attempt and fell off the crux move because the left hand sloper with the thumbcatch was very different than what i thought.

so then i looked at it one more time and started from the v5 sit start and got it right away. felt solid.

so even though i didnt flash it, i got it 2nd go. still much to learn for me

so we walked a little further to andrews boulder problem.

i was lifting weights with my forearms the previous wednesday, i worked them out pretty good, and i havent lifted in a while...

for some reason, on andrews boulder i got so pumped...maybe left over soreness from wednesday..? i felt sore in the morning, but idk i never felt that pumped before.

i was sending andrews boulder problem and on the v0 top-out i felt so pumped that i touched the last jug but decided to let myself down because my hands were opening up.

very weird.

but if im feeling this sore, then that means ill probably get stronger for next time :)

the following morning i felt sooooo crappy hahah.

i picked up manuel from the hospital and after traffic on 87, we got home at 930. i had a 3 page paper to write and a history test to start studying for.

so i was mad beat.

and i feel like new pair was a tease yesterday, i really wanted to send it, but didnt have time to get on it! very disappointing. i am much more disappointed for emiliano, so it was a disappointing day.

but i didnt let it get me down, i still had lots of fun, and i think we made the best of it.

november 22nd is the next day i will be at the gunks, weather and God permitting...

ill make sure im ready this time!!