So my last update was almost 2 months ago. I feel like a lot has happened in that time.
I haven't been able to climb outside since the last update. The weather has been shot on the days that I'm able to make the hike up to New Paltz.
But last week was different! I finally got a decent day in terms of temps. It was drizzling here and there. but it was just nice to be out again.
I've seen some drastic improvements in strength. Especially crimp strength. I knew my crimps needed to get stronger to handle harder problems.
I saw a brick wall at my job and always looked at 1/4 pad crimps, wondering if it was climbable. I felt like it was, except the feet are terrible, I can barely fit my climbing shoes into the crevasses because of how thin they are.
I didn't climb on it that often, maybe once a week for about 3 weeks. The pressure on my joints hurt really bad, and i knew that it meant i could get stronger on them. It was sharp and would leave tears in my skin!
So anyway. besides that, ive been eating normal except a ton of chocolate milk and some calcium tablets.
Last week I went to the trapps, while my friends worked the buddha v7, i worked the first extension, illustrious buddha v8. It was my 2nd day trying the extension, the first day i got to the last move and couldnt throw to the jug. the 2nd day, from the very first go, i got to the last move, but the intermediate was so bad and my shoes kept slipping off with the heel hooks. after a bunch of tries, i decided to click my heels together when i cut feet to put the shoes back on and go to the top all at once. it worked! i sent. awesome problem.
the same day i went to work on boxcar arete and the art of nothing. both v8's.
i didnt think id send boxcar, because when i tried it back in june, my crimp strength was no where near where i needed it to be. so i tried it anyway, and first try i found myself at the top reaching for the jug horn! i cruised through all the moves and they didnt even feel hard. crimp training at my work i suppose...
unfortunately, i had some elbow tendonitis from climbing 3 days in a row, including trying to complete all 14 new problems at the gym the previous night (got 12).
so i lacked the power to campus (i know) to the horn..
walked over to art of nothing, awesome problem. totally looked my style. crimps (now) and a dyno. it was went but i went for it anyway. my 2nd go i was reaching for the top! once again i lacked the power...i really should have waited for the flash, i believe i could have since its a pretty straightforward, short problem.
so the following week i went back to finish boxcar and the art of nothing. i sent boxcar first go after warming up on a v0 and v2, and then sent art of nothing 2nd go. pretty sweet!
so i wanted to try dragon turns v9, since i only tried it once back in april and wasnt even close to sticking the opening.
after some tries, i found myself throwing for the lip for the topout...!! i caught the jug with the tips of my fingers, and went to readjust, and then this happened:
such a bummer! ive never done that to my finger before, but i cut a chunk out of it!
so once again i had another cliff hanger (lol). another problem i have to go back and do..i was too close!
so here are some videos. the first one has me doing illustrious and the 2nd has boxcar and the art of nothing...
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