Gunks, More Injuries, More Sending, Super-Update! at 9:57 PM

Wow. it's been a WHILE since i updated.

let me fill you in with some short details.

i injured my left hand middle finger crimp pulley in hueco
i injured my right hand ring finger pocket pulley on a v9 at the gravity vault in chatham

ive mostly been trying to rehab my injuries, and am able to start climbing semi-normally only now...although this past week, ive been climbing every other day unintentionally and im starting to feel my tendons wearing down again.

ive been doing some secret training to get stronger, but i have only been able to implement my training for a week or so..but i have seen some good results.

i went to the gunks last tuesday and the week before that...

sent the buddha v6/7 on my 3rd go
worked on boxcar arete v8 (i can get 2 moves from the top, and almost am able to start from there and topout. but i need to get stronger, maybe in a month ill be strong enough to send it. really hard on my crimps right now..)
ive been getting better flow on easier problems like the lorax v4, and the gill egg v4. im understanding things a lot better now.

at my home gym GSR, theres one red v8 project that im able to link up to the crux, and then from the crux get to the finish, but the crux is just a little bit rough for me to do on command every time. i think i can pull it off this week, but its a basic power pinch problem, and really powerful on a steep overhang.

they put up a bunch of new problems the other day and i either flashed or got 2nd go every problem on the boulder except a new black v8. the new black v8 includes a scrunchy foot that you have to make a big move off tiny crimps. it seems impossible for me at my level now. but i have some time, hopefully i can dispatch it before it gets taken down.

so i wont bore you with too much more detail...im trying to get stronger, im starting to take protein again, tuesday i was WRECKED.

climbed at the gunks all day and came back home and climbed at gsr...definitely overdid it that day.

anyway. here's a vid from the gunks of me re-sending the buddha. enjoy.