Tracking Calories and Nutrition/Serious Training Routine at 11:12 AM

So like I said, for the next 4 weeks I'm going to go training crazy and see what happens.

But we all know just working hard doesn't always = good. You gotta workout smart too.

Therefore I'm going to monitor my caloric and nutritional intake so that I can put on about a pound of muscle a week so I can get stronger healthily without just overworking my muscles/tendons.

Now, to inform you, I am 5'10 weigh 140 lb.s and have 6% body fat, which means I have 8.4 lb.s of fat on my body.

I normally eat about 2100-2200 calories a day. In order to maintain my weight, I have to eat about 2400-2500 calories..which is why I keep losing weight, slowly but surely.

One pound = 3500 calories, meaning to put on a pound you need to consume 500 extra calories a day..obviously most of those calories have to come from protein otherwise you'll just get fat!

So I need:
3,025 calories a day
Max 90g fat
Of fat only 30g max saturated
373g max carbohydrates
About 140 grams of protein, a gram per pound. Although 130 would be ok too.
And 31g of dietary fiber.

I am tracking my intake through a really useful website called www.fitday.com

There you can look up thousands of popular brands of foods and add them up to find out what you consume in a day.

Already I'm avoiding the cookies and saving space for meals!

Lol.

So onto the workout regimine.

I won't go into too much detail, but the way I work out for power is to do all 3 types of resistance training basically to work out till exhaustion.

Now I haven't gone on a strict muscle building routine in 2 years, but back then it worked pretty well.

For each muscle group, I do 3 sets of 70-80% of my max weight for 5-8 reps. Then I do a different excercise for 50% of my max weight for 10 reps. Then I do a final excercise for 20% of my max weight for about 20 reps.

In this way, I'm only at the gym pumping iron for about a half hour, so that my muscles get exhausted quickly with little rest in between.

I hardly ever did cardio..but ill have to start..

My schedule is as follows:
Week 1: Power Week 12/23-12/29
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Chest
Friday: Rest (It's Christmas after all...)
Saturday: Brooklyn Boulders
Sunday: Back/Abs
Monday: Rest/Trip To D.C.
Tuesday: Rest/Trip To D.C.

Week 2: Endurance 12/30-1/5(Light reps + treadmill or other cardio excercise every day at the gym)
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Chest/Climbing
Friday: Rest/Retreat to PA (possible light climbing)
Saturday: Rest/Retreat to PA (possible light climbing)
Sunday: Back/Abs
Monday: Dance Dance Revolution/Climbing
Tuesday: Rest

Week 3: Power Week/Rest 1/6-1/12? (Subject to change based on what day is optimal to take a trip to boulder outside)
Wed: Biceps/Triceps/Forearms
Thurs: Shoulders/Back/Climbing
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Rest
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Rest

Week 4: Rest Before Sending 1/13-1/19
Wed: Rest
Trip possibly begin Thursday ending no later than Sunday

And in terms of supplements, I'm currently taking:

Vitamin Shoppe Brand:
Amino Complex
Glucosamine (vegetarian formula)
MEGA Fish Oil EPA-DHA

GNC Brand:
B-Complex 50


BSN Brand:
Syntha-6 Chocolate Milkshake Protein Complex


VPX Brand:
Zero Impact Pumpkin Supreme and/or Peanut Butter and Jelly Protein Bars


Rationale:
Really simply,
Amino acids = broken down proteins for immediately after working out to absorb into your muscles
Glucosamine for joints and tendons
Fish oil for heart joints tendons and over a dozen other good things
B-Vitamins for energy
Zero Impact protein bars are great tasting bars that dont have sugar alcohols or anything that makes you feel sick after you eat them. Great for when im on the run and i cant make a protein shake. Lots of calories too, and theyre from healthy fats and protein.
Syntha6 is definitely the best tasting protein shake ive ever tried, plus it also doesnt have sugar alcohols and doesnt make me feel sick. plus you only need to put it in 6 fl oz of water for 22 grams of protein and around 200 calories. I have a small stomach so its good to use a couple times during the day if need be.

So that's basically it! I can answer any questions you guys have...

Hopefully ill look back at this entry and be proud. haha.

As of right now, I just got back from a church party that only had cookies and snacks...no food. so I had to just hold out till i got home to eat.

I took in
2,661 calories out of 3,025

76.9g fat out of max 90

374.8g carbs out of max 373

121.1g protein out of 140

today. I could probably eat some more chicken and hit the 140 mark in protein and finish at 2,800 calories..but i dont want to eat too much more since ill be going to bed within 2 hours..

so ill try harder tomorrow! but still, 2,600 calories and 120g protein is better than what i usually do!

I am soooo sore right now. it feels good.

One month to go, i am trying to go outside... at 11:17 AM

LOL. so it's been 11 months officially that i have been rock climbing.

just a few things i want to say:

1. probably not sending v10 next month lol
2. forget sending v10, i need to get outside period!
3. last week i got the OK from the doctor to eat normally and take supplements again. (fish oils, glucosamine, amino acids) and im going to start taking them along with upping my protein levels again..
4. tomorrow is my last final at school, so starting tomorrow im gonna try to train all out for the next 4 weeks...and see what happens. ill make training plans tonight, and hopefully will post them up in the next few days..

here's a video of me yesterday sending a fun V6 that just got put up at GSR by simon. i tried to flash it, but dabbed. i got it the 2nd go tho!

Garden State Rocks V6 Indoor Rock Climbing from Alan Kahn on Vimeo.

Oh, and Merry Christmas!!

Sickness & Recovery, Brooklyn Boulders, Future Plans at 9:21 AM

YO!

So lets see...

I got really sick last week, from sunday to sunday i was barely able to walk.

my liver became inflamed, i didnt eat more than two bowls of soup for 5 days, vomitted blood, had a steady fever, lost a total of 10 lb.s, and my urine was dark brown.

saturday i forced myself to eat so i wouldnt have to go to the hospital.

they thought i had hepatitis a, but thankfully the blood tests came out negative.

i go back to the doctors next week to get a couple more tests done.

on sunday i started feeling a little better, and since i had to cancel a trip to the gunks, instead i decided to go to gsr for an hour.

i felt pretty weak.
next day i went back and still felt pretty bad but almost sent a new v7.. (now that i look back i think it may be kinda soft for a 7.) next session i felt a little better and got it right away

im not allowed to eat things with fat, caffeine, obviously alcohol, and im supposed to regulate my protein intake to about 40-60 grams a day.

to a person thats targets around 140 grams of protein a day...thats a major setback. (although i hardly hit that goal daily...lol.)

so it felt like i was told i wasnt allowed to get stronger for 2 weeks. kinda beat.

i feel the effects, i feel like its taking longer to recover and im not able to unlock the potential i should have by now...

anyway. i checked out brooklyn boulders with jj last saturday. the place was insane! so many problems, some really really fun setting, and a cool environment.

i sent a bunch of 5's and a 7. i was projecting a couple more 7s and 9s. on two v9s i got about halfway, and i feel i could get much farther if i was fresh. theyve been haunting me and i really want to go back to send them.

we mostly stuck to ivan's problems, they seemed to be the most fun.

there was a really cool stemming v4 with two giant features that was really sweet, and the most fun dyno problem ever that was a v5. (video footage below of a really funny burn. lol.)

i really want to go back there. i feel like going there could really give me the potential to be strong. theres a lot of things out of my grasp, and problems that can teach me new moves and techniques and stuff. thats really what ive been looking for.

i went to gsr on monday, and still felt sore from saturday. we bouldered saturday night from 8pm till 12am.

i was kinda upset i was still feeling weak. ive started to gain back some weight, but i doubt much of it is muscle because of my diet..

im debating right now whether to go climb between now and sunday...

sunday i plan on going to the gunks. i hope to have lots of fun and to be able to try some hard stuff beyond my ability.

soo i want to be able to be at full throttle sunday...idk. maybe ill wait.

at the same time i want to get stronger for sunday...but if i climb today i might still be sore..ahh! too much thinking.

anyway. ive been watching videos from niagara glen. i really really want to climb there. it looks insane. the rock looks so good and the problems are hard and really cool.

maybe ill go there during winter break if its not snowing.

idk!

i need to get outside, even though its getting cold.

so for now, check out a vid from brooklyn boulders featuring the most fun dyno ever, and a really embarrasing fall. lol